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Complete guide to Chiloe Island, Chile

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Chile - Chiloe island - Castro - palafitos 1

Nestled in the captivating landscapes of Northern Patagonia, Chiloe Island beckons travellers with its unique charm and abundant delights. From savouring fresh shellfish to exploring remote beaches and marvelling at UNESCO-listed churches, our journey to Chiloe Island promised unforgettable experiences.

After months of eating tinned and packaged food in Patagonia, the thoughts of fresh shellfish, salmon, ceviche and more had us drooling. So our plan was to rent a car to visit Chiloe’s unique churches and houses, kayak within a sunken forest, hunt for pre-Colombian artefacts on remote beaches, look for Penguins and of course eat tasty Chilean food along the way.

Are you looking into travelling around Chiloe island in Chile, but aren’t sure what to do or see? No worries, we have your back! Welcome to our exclusive travel guide, crafted to unveil the lesser-known wonders of Chiloe Island.

Get ready to for an authentic visit of Chiloe, where local traditions, untouched landscapes, and unforgettable encounters await every intrepid explorer. Join us as we share everything you need to know to prepare a trip to Chiloe Island, Chile.

Chile - Chiloe island - Castro - vie mirador Gamboa
Chiloe Island, Chile – View of Castro’s palafios from the Mirador Gamboa

Chiloe Island: 1, 2, 3 & 4 days Itinerary

One-Day Itinerary

  • Visit the iconic palafitos along the waterfront and admire their unique architecture.
  • Explore the San Francisco Church in the main square, a historical gem with vibrant yellow and purple hues.
  • Wander through the artisanal market, Mercado Municipal, and savour a delicious lunch of fresh fish and ceviche.
  • Head to the outskirts of Castro to witness the mystical landscapes of rolling hills blanketed in legendary fog. Mirador Gamboa is a must to visit for the best viewpoint!

Two-Day Itinerary on Chiloe Island

Proceed with Day 1 as per the above itinerary and spend the night in Castro.

Day 2:

  • Drive from Casto to Dalcahue where you can visit the lively artisanal market, taste local delicacies and buy homemade crafts
  • Catch a ferry from Dalcahue to Quinchao Island
  • Stroll through the charming towns of Curaco de Velez before heading to visit the UNESCO-listed wooden churches, like the Church of Quinchao.

Three-Day Itinerary on Chiloe Island

Proceed with Days 1 & 2 as per the above itinerary but spend the night in Achao.

Day 3:

  • Depart Quinchao Island and head to Ancud, the largest town on Chiloe Island.
  • Explore the north-west coast to visit fortresses, like Fuerte San Antonio.
  • Visit the Bateria Balcacura, Fuerte de Chaicura, and Fuerte Ahui.
  • Take a leisurely stroll along remote beaches and search for pre-Colombian artifacts.

Four-Day Itinerary on Chiloe Island

Proceed to Days 1, 2 & 3 as per the above itinerary but spend the night in Ancud.

Day 4:

  • Drive to Chepu where you can rent a kayak and visit the sunken forest
  • In the afternoon make your way back to Castro via Quemchi
  • Stop in Aucar to visit the mystic Isla de las Almas Navegantes

Castro

Woodwork and Handicrafts

Lovers of handicrafts and woodwork will adore Castro. Home to fishermen and carpenters, the city has evolved to be made entirely of wood. Each building is different in its shape, design and colour. You could easily spend hours wandering around town, looking at the houses.

Visit the palafitos

Next up on the list is to find the palafitos, traditional wooden houses built on stilts above the water. To see the reflections of the palafitos in the water while the sun lights the houses with a golden touch, it is best to go at low tide. And if it coincides with sunset, you are bound for an incredible view.

The Palafitos can be found all along the coastline, but for the best views head to the Mirador Gamboa in the south of the town, and to the Indura Market on the Panamerica heading north.

The San Francisco Church

Also worth a mention is the towering central point in the main square, the San Francisco church with its popping yellow and purple painting. The church of Castro was one of the first on the island built in attempt to convert the local indigenous population to Catholicism. 

The current church was finished in 1912 after the previous ones had burnt down. You can visit for free. We would also recommend visiting by at night to see it entirely lit. 

Rio Chacra and local cuisine

Inevitably, if you walk along the Rio Chacra, you will find cafes, hotels and restaurants built on stilts houses that you might be able to visit. Indulge in Chilote culinary delights.

Seek out traditional dishes like curanto, a flavorful mix of seafood, shellfish, meat, potatoes, and vegetables, cooked in a pit in the ground. Don’t forget to also try other local specialties, like empanadas and Chilean cakes.

Chile - Chiloe island - Castro pilotis wood

Where to eat in Castro

For a good lunch of fresh fish, head to the Mercado Municipal near the harbour. You will find local fishermen selling already-made Ceviche and stalls where to buy fresh vegetables, fish and cheese!

If you are not a fan of raw fish, head to the bus station. In the small park nearby you will find a truck selling tasty empañadas. And for those willing to cook in their hostel, the main road will be your go-to, to find stores, butchers and bakeries.

Where to stay in Castro

There are a few hostels in Castro that tend to get fully booked during the high season. The cheapest one will be found in the centre of town near the main square (Plaza de Armas). We stayed at
Hostal Backpacker Chiloe sur which is fine for single travellers. Couples may prefer the 
Hostal Plaza Chiloe for more privacy.

If you prefer staying in a Palafito have a look at Palafito hostel or Palafito Azul.

Dalcahue

Dalcahue is a quiet place that is on most tourists’ bucket-list with the departure of the ferry to Quinchao Island. However, if you are a foodie like us Dalcahue will blow your mind (and taste) away.

Life mainly takes place around the artisanal market where you can find homemade crafts and buy some amazing smoked chilli called Merken. But while curious seals wait for a treat from visitors in the picturesque harbour, the real star here is found in an unassuming building. Located beside the craft market, we first walked in not knowing what was there before being hit by the incredible aromas of the local dishes.

This little building hosts around 8 restaurants all run by families. You will find giant mussels, amazing seafood soups and dish after dish of fish. Our pick? Paila marina, a soup containing all types of shellfish and big red balls otherwise known as sea pineapple (sea squirt shellfish), and Poroto Granado for those intolerant to seafood like me. This traditional countryside stew is made with pork, beans, noodles and cranberry. An explosion of flavour.

Both dishes were accompanied by bread and a surprising greenish garlicky herb sauce. To this day, this has to be one of the best meals we have had in all of South America. Count about CLP 4000 per dish (€5).

Chile - Chiloe island - Craft market
Chile - Chiloe island - Food

Take a Ferry to Quinchao Island

The Island of Quinchao is really close to the main island of Chiloé but taking a ferry is necessary to cross over. The ferry is really short, about 5 to 10 min and is as frequent as there is demand from cars, trucks and pedestrians. 

To get to Quinchao Island, head to Dalcahue located only 30 min drive from Castro, and present yourself at the ferry ramp. From the main road “Freire”, you will find signs indicating where the departure of the ferry is. 

Cost: CLP 2 500 per car one way. Free for the passengers.

Quinchao island

The oldest wooden church

The island of Quinchao feels remote and desolated. Exactly what you would expect from a small island in the south of Chile. Here, you won’t find many tourists, only locals living a peaceful life rhythmed by the weather and the farming seasons of salmon and potatoes.

Visiting Quinchao is, however, inevitable for one good reason: the wooden churches scattered around and recognized as World Heritage sites by Unesco. A unique example of ecclesiastic wooden architecture in South America, the churches of Chiloé serve as a witness of a carpentry tradition carried since the 17th century by the local population.

The UNESCO World Heritage Wooden Churches of Chiloé Island

Being an island, Chiloé was one of the last places in Chile to be visited by outsiders. For years the island developed its own customs, beliefs and skills independent of the mainland. When colonisers came and started to convert the Islanders, one of the first things they did was build churches.

However, the Jesuits in charge were unskilled and only knew how they wanted the churches to look, not how to build them. The local fishermen in charge of the carpentry work had to find a way to build curved roofs. Inspired by their only knowledge of boat structures, they adopted the designs their fathers had used for generations and flipped the hulls upside down to form the roofs.

There were once 150 churches on the island, 16 are now classed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

If you had to visit only one it would be the church of Santa Maria de Loreto de Achao, found in the small town

Other places to visit in Quinchao

You can drive around the island to find more churches and remote beaches. Most of the island is covered by private farms and other than the main paved road crossing the towns of Curazo de Vélez, Achao and Quinchao, you won’t find much. 

We would recommend also visiting the church of Quinchao and if you have time head south to see salmon farms and appreciate the gorgeous landscape and views of the ocean.

Staying on Quinchao Island

You will find a few hostals on the island that won’t be advertised online. Do not expect much luxury, the island is remote and rooms to let in are usually offered by locals trying to make a bit of money from tourism. 

Be aware that places like this tend to shut down during holidays such as Easter and get crowded on weekends with local Chilean visitors.

Chile - Chiloe island - sunset achao

Quemchi

Quemchi is a small but lively fishermen’s town, you will probably be able to walk around in about 30 min. Head to the pier for the best views and to the beach to find colourful fishing boats parked on the sand at low tides. Also, don’t miss the small main square to admire the vibrant local church painted in yellow and red. One of our favourites. 

Taste more culinary specialities

Other than the above, one of the main reasons to head to Quemchi is to try Curanto. Curanto is made with all types of seafood, shellfish, meat, potato and vegetables cooked in a pit in the ground. Despite being a typical dish of Chiloé, finding a restaurant serving it is difficult as it is mostly made among family members at home or at the beach.

However, in Quemchi we were recommended the restaurant El Chejo. They also make the “best empañadas” in Chile according to the locals. Unfortunately for the city water pump had broken down and all the restaurants in town were closed when we visited.

We still managed to find a place to snack on delicious Chilean cakes and pies. For the best Torta de Hoja find the cafe on the first floor of the “shopping mall” – the owner is French and is passionate about speciality coffee.

Chile - Chiloe island - Quemchi fishing boat
Chile - Chiloe island - Quemchi church

Visit Aucar Island

Only 5 min drive south of Quemchi is found on the small island of Aucar that unleashes itself from the mainland at high tide. Probably because of its mystical look throughout dense fog, Aucar is also known as the island of the navigator’s souls. It gets its nickname from Francisco Coloane, a Chilean poet.

The island hosts an old wooden chapel, a cemetery and a botanical garden run by the local school kids. But what makes Aucar so special and intriguing, is the 500 m long pedestrian wooden bridge that seems endless when the bad weather comes in, and the island disappears in the cloud. Probably the only time we would hope for a foggy day.

Chepu

Kayaking in the middle of a sunken forest

Now, it is time to leave the east coast and get some kilometres under your belts. To visit Chepu, you will need to cross the island to the west and follow a long-paved and empty road across rolling hills.

The reason to go all this way is to go kayaking in a sunken forest. Something you probably would have never thought of, but an exceptional experience. And if you hoped for dense fog in Aucar island, it is time to hope for the sun because it feels really creepy to be kayaking in the dead forest on a cloudy day…

The Sunken forest of Chepu
In 1960 an earthquake hit Chile and caused the land to drop near Chepu, on the west coast of Chiloé Island. This unfortunate event was quickly followed by a tsunami that engulfed part of a forest of the sunken land. The water trapped, it has to date never retreated. Over the years, the saltwater killed the trees creating a strange scenery that seems to have come from a Tim Burton movie… The sunken forest is home to important wildlife and it is perfectly safe to venture into its midst with a kayak.

To visit the forest that looks like a swamp dotted by dead trunks, you will need to go to the Ecolodge Chepu Adventures  where you can rent kayaks but also spend the night. The view from the lodge is astonishing and it is an excellent place for nature lovers and birdwatchers. Cost: CLP 10 000 (€14) per hour.

May 2024 update – the Ecolodge Chepu Adventures seems to have closed down.

Ancud

Find hidden fortresses and remote beaches

Ancus is the largest town in Chiloé. It is also the closest to the continent with easy access to Puerto Montt by ferry and highway. But Ancud is pretty and watching the sunset over the sea from the fortress of the city (Fuerte San Antonio) is an excellent way to end a beautiful day on Chiloé Island.

We would recommend staying two nights in Ancud and using the town as a base to visit the nearby forts that were built to defend Ancud from outsiders and pirates. For this, head to the northwest of the island to find among others the “Bateria Balcacura”, “Fuerte de Chaicura” and “Fuerte Ahui”.

There, it is still possible to see original canons used in the 18th century, walk along empty beaches in a search of pre-Colombian artefacts (that we didn’t find) or spot hummingbirds.

Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus)” by Brendan A Ryan is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

The Penguins of Puñihuil 

If you are looking for a unique and unforgettable wildlife experience, you should visit the islands of Puñihuil, a natural monument on the northwestern coast of Chiloe Island, Chile.

This is the only place in the world where you can see the Humboldt and the Magellanic penguin living and breeding together.

To get to the Puñihuil Islands, you must take a boat tour from Puñihuil beach which will take you around the islets to observe these adorable birds up close. The beach is accessible by bus from Ancud, but you can also driver there if you have a car. The best time to visit is from September to May. 

Penguins in South America!
If you are interested in seeing more penguins in South America, we have a dedicated article that lists all the places you can see the birds. From the Magellanic to the Humboldt and Galapagos penguins, you will get a full overview of all the places to add to your bucket list and how to get there!

> Click Here to read out dedicated article

Where to stay in Ancud?

For backpackers but also groups of friends and even families, we would recommend the hostel 13 Lunas. Quiet, great atmosphere, friendly staff, splendid views, comfortable rooms and bed, hot showers, huge kitchen well furnished and AMAZING breakfast. For Patagonia, it’s a miracle!

Make sure to check the reviews online and look at availabilities. It is a known place to stay and we can absolutely vouch for it! – booking.com

Chile - Chiloe - Fuerte Balcacura

Transport on Chiloe Island

Public transport

To explore Chiloe Island thoroughly, reliable transportation options are essential. The north of the island enjoys a good network of local buses connecting the main towns of Castro and Ancud. While there are local shuttles to smaller villages, their frequency might vary and be a lot more sporadic.

Hitch-hiking

While hitchhikers may cross your path, those we met on our trip told us that hitchhiking was quite challenging due to the limited traffic flow. For a hassle-free exploration, we would recommend teaming up with fellow backpackers and sharing the cost of a rental car. Hostels serve as great hubs to find travel mates interested in joining you for a road trip adventure. 

Rent a car

For optimal flexibility and the freedom to venture to remote beaches, Spanish forts, sunken forests, and the captivating UNESCO churches that lie beyond the reach of local transport, consider renting a car during your visit. Chiloe’s allure lies in its sparse landscapes and misty rolling hills, which come alive in the less accessible corners of the island. To embrace the true essence of Chiloe, an immersive self-guided tour beckons, allowing you to soak in the authentic ambience at your pace.

We rented a car from Castro for 5 days which Cost us CLP 120 000 plus Petrol: CLP 23 400. This was with a local company recommended by our hostel, but in total honesty, I don’t remember the name.

If you want to pre-book a car online, the only town would be Dalcahue or Puerto Montt. Here is a link to Discover Cars, which is the rental car comparator we use for all our travels. It is a safe website to find the best deal, and they also offer insurance or liability reduction for less than €7 a day.

Take a tour

If you are not able to rent a car or are on a tight constraint preventing you to spend too much time on Chiloe, you can take the below tour from Puerto Varas. It lasts about 9 hours and will take you to see the Island’s highlights.

How to get to Chiloe island

Chiloé is the largest island in the country of Chile. It is found in the Pacific Ocean in Northern Patagonia, about 1200 km south of Santiago de Chile. Despite its remoteness on the map, the island is easily accessible by local transport.

From the North: Puerto Montt to Chiloe island

The closest city on the continent is Puerto Montt, a city we wouldn’t advise staying in, but an unavoidable stop towards Chiloé if you travel by bus, north to south. From the main terminal, you can catch a bus for CLP 6,500. Note the bus will take the ferry across the Canal de Chacao but the fees are included in the ticket. You can also take a night bus from Santiago de Chile to Ancud. It should take around 15 hours.

You can also take a 1.5-hour direct plane from Santiago de Chile (SCL) to the airport Mocopulli (MHC) with Latam airlines. Note this company offers special prices to Chilean residents only which can mislead you upon checking prices. Count a minimum €100 for this flight as a non-resident.

Multi-day or Day trips from Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas

If you are settled on the Chile Lake District for a few days, you can take a day trip to Chiloe island or even an overnight trip with a guided tour. These tours are great options if you don’t have the time to rent a car or don’t want to organize the trip yourself. If you’re not fluent in Spanish, having a guide who speaks your language can facilitate communication and improve your overall experience.

Also, since guided tours are led by experienced and knowledgeable guides, you will get to learn about the rich history and culture of Chiloe island. something that I wish I had done more often during my 11 month in South America.

Here are a few guided tours from Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas that you may be interested in:

From the south: Coyhaique to Chiloe island

If you are travelling from the south of the country you will need to take a ferry from Chaiten to Castro or from Puerto Chacabuco/Puerto Cisnes to Quellon. 

Both routes are operated by Navira Austral, a local ferry company that links the most remote parts of the Chilean fjords. 

Taking the ferry can take up to 24 hours, but it is a great reward as you will have the chance to navigate through the incredible landscape and you may have the chance to spot marine wildlife such as blue whales and dolphins. 

Our experience taking the Ferry to Chiloe from Patagonia

With more than 20 hours on a boat, it meant a whole day chilling on the deck.  So we decided to make the most of it and enjoy the incredible views of the Chilean fjords and the volcanos that popped up from the mainland. After being caught in snow only a few days before, the weather was incredible with blue skies and no wind. The boat sailed smoothly, without a bump or a roll.

The locals mainly stayed inside the boat watching soap operas on TV. All of the backpackers, including us, stayed chasing the sun on the deck moving from one side to another as the boat turned and the sun changed sides. What a lazy life for a bunch of backpackers, picnicking, drinking beer and eating chips, while reading, sharing stories or looking out at the horizon in the search of wildlife.

Secluded Islands

The boat continued its journey along the fjords, stopping once in a while in very remote areas. It was really impressive to reach such places which mainly survive from fishing and a weekly (or maybe fortnightly) ferry… Some people boarded from islands on which 4WD would drive on the beach to access the ferry ramp…

Looking for Whales

I was one of the most determined, unable to stop looking into the waters and hoping to see a blow… Steven on his side trusted me to find the whales and was determined to finish his book “In Patagonia” while still in Patagonia.

Tireless and with unflagging enthusiasm, I spotted a blow as I was alone on the deck. Unable to move, I called as loud as I could for my travel mates. A blue whale had just passed by the boat. It was the first time we were seeing this giant of the sea, the largest mammal on Earth.

Frequently asked questions about Chiloe Island, Chile

Chiloé Island is one of the most lesser known places in Chile and yet, one of the most interesting. Explore the UNESCO World Heritage wooden churches, go kayaking within a sunken forest, discover a unique landscape in Chile and taste incredible seafood. #chiloe #chile 
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jen – Owner, writer & photographer – has lived for the past 10 years across Oceania and Ireland while also travelling long-term in Latin America, North America and Europe. She has visited more than 60 countries and set foot on every continent in the world!

>> Favourite countries: New Zealand, Bolivia, Iceland.
>> Wishlist: Svalbard, Japan, Botswana, Alaska.
>> Philosophy: “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.

Jen is a coffee nerd, passionate about photographywildlife and outdoor activities. Her organisation and curiosity make her a great travel companion always looking for DIY and off-the-grid adventures. For more info, check out the About page.

If you’ve found this travel guide useful and want to say Thank You, you can now buy me a virtual coffee!

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2 thoughts on “Complete guide to Chiloe Island, Chile”

  1. And us to have you as a reader Halit. Are you going anywhere special in Chile and for how long? We would love to hear about what you are planning on doing there.

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