Cycling the Via Verde de la Sierra – Olvera to Puerto Serrano

Via Verde de la Sierra

Where – Start from Olvera or Puerto Serrano, 2 hours from Malaga

How – Cycle or walk

Route – 36km one way, allow 4 hours one way

Highlight – Peñón de Zaframagón (vulture observatory)

Stay – in Olvera at Hotel Tugasa Sierra y Cal

Renting a bike for the Via Verde cycle

Okay, so first, where do you rent a bike to cycle the Via Verde de la Sierra?

There are 3 companies offering bikes for rent. One in Olvera, one in Coripe and one in Puerto Serrano. These rentals can be found directly at the Via Verd,e where you can park your car.

Expect to pay between €10-15 for a normal bike and €25 for an electric one.

We booked ours the day before because of limited electric bikes, but I do not think it is necessary even during the high season. We conveniently passed by the rental and reserved it for the next morning at 9 am.

Upon renting the bike, you will be asked to leave an ID as a secured deposit, which is returned once you are finished cycling. However, expect to pay ahead and in cash.

Depending on the season, you may want to start first thing in the morning to avoid the day’s heat. However, from June to September, it can get quite chilly. At the end of April, our hands and ears got really cold while cycling in the shadow of the olive trees and along the tunnels. I would recommend starting at least around 11 a.m or bring gloves & a hat!

Guided Tours are also offered for groups. I am adding the link below, but I find the price per person completely overpriced, and I am not sure it is worth such costs…

• Cycling – Via Verde de la Sierra – 36km – Easy Level – From Ronda

Should you book an electric bike?

The path is not as flat as you may think. If you plan to cycle 36km from Olvera to Puerto Serrano, it mainly goes downhill, though there are a few inclines that will get your heart pumping!

If, like us, you just want to cycle to the Peñón de Zaframagón and back, then an e-bike is definitely best. That return to Olvera is exhausting, and I was more than happy with the electric support uphill.

The charge is long enough for 50km of continuous use, which is plenty even if you plan on cycling from Olvera to Puerto Serrano and back (that’s a long day!).

Electric bikes have several gears independent from the bike gear, so you must play with both to find the right rhythm. But don’t forget these are not scooters! To be able to work, you still need to pedal.

How long is the cycle along the Via Verde?

The 36km one-way trip should take about 4 hours at a good pace. It may take longer if you take many breaks or are cycling with children.

If you include a picnic and a few stops on the way, like the Zaframagón Vulture Observatory, you can make it a nice day trip on the Via Verde.

For a half-day trip, aim to cycle to the Peñón de Zaframagón. It should take 3 hours there, back from Olvera, and about 4 hours from Puerto Serrano. It took us slightly less time (about 2h30), but we pushed the electric gear up to 5/6 and were flying all the way back to Olvera.

Of course, the timing might vary depending on the cyclist’s pace or if you choose to stop at attractions along the way. The above details are just a baseline of what we have experienced.

How do you get back to your starting point?

Depending on where you started, you can order a taxi from Coripe, Puerto Serrano, or Olvera. These are independent from rental companies, which do not offer free return shuttles. The cost from Puerto Serrano to Olvera (and vice versa) is about €40-50, which is a subsequent extra cost. Keep this in mind as you prepare for your trip.

You can ask your rental company for the taxi’s phone number that can carry bikes. Call them about 30-45 min ahead of time.

The rental bike company in Olvera told us that some people cycle to Puerto Serrano and return to Olvera. This 72km trip should take about 7 hours. Since you will get back on the same path, the return will be a lot faster with fewer stops (unless you don’t take an electric bike).

If you plan this, we don’t recommend taking the standard bikes, as the return will be uphill and quite exhausting after already cycling 36km.

The Via Verde de la Sierra – Olvera to Puerto Serrano Route

Once you start the Via Verde, you will find yourself along a peaceful track surrounded by Olive groves and rolling hills. It is truly a beautiful part of Andalusia that not many tourists get to discover.

No all-inclusive beach resorts here! But nature and calm all around.

The track is very well-signed and obvious to follow. You can’t get lost. However, be aware that the Via Verde is shared with pedestrians. The Via Verde de la Sierra is part of one of the Camino Routes heading to Santiago de Compostela. While a lot less popular than the Camino Frances, you may see several pilgrims on the way, so make sure to reduce speed (and give them a “buen camino” of encouragement! They still have a long way to go).

You may also see horseback riders and local farmers’ cars. They are the only people allowed to drive on the Via Verde (mostly around Olvera) to and from their farms.

Some turns are along small cliffs secured with wood fences. If you like speed as you go downhill, make sure to keep control of your bike. There might be gravel and holes in the ground in some parts, which can cause a fall.

The cycling trail, which was initially intended to host train lines, goes through many (many, many) tunnels. Some are longer and darker than others. While they all have lights triggered as you enter the tunnel, they are spaced out a bit too much to my liking, meaning you end up cycling through parts of the tunnels in total darkness.

Make sure to reduce your speed as it can be tricky to see the path and navigate potential potholes. If you have a personal bike light you can take, please do. Our rental didn’t have any.

Olvera to Zaframagón = 13km – 1.5/2h one way

This segment of the journey stretches approximately 13 kilometres, starting in the picturesque town of Olvera. As you leave Olvera, the trail gently slopes downwards, surrounded by lush olive groves and the occasional flock of sheep grazing under the Andalusian sun.

You will cross no less than 15 tunnels and one long bridge along the way.

As you approach the Zaframagón station, the landscape is dotted with dramatic rock formations and expansive views of the distant mountains.

Allow about 1.5 to 2 hours for this section, especially if you’re stopping to take photos or to enjoy the scenery.

This part of the route concludes as you approach the imposing Peñón de Zaframagón, a renowned vulture-watching spot.

Zaframagón to Coripe Station = 8km – 45min/1h

This 8-kilometer stretch continues from the vulture observatory at Zaframagón towards Coripe Station.

As you cycle forward, the terrain includes a mix of flat sections and slight inclines with beautiful views of the Andalusian countryside.

You will continue cycling across historical railway tunnels, though not as many as during the first part (only 5).

The estimated cycling time for this segment is around 1 hour, making it a relatively quick ride if you want to cycle a bit longer. From Coripe, you can order a taxi to head back to Olvera or find a small restaurant for tapas.

Coripe is not along the Via Verde, but 2km away (the turn is before the Coripe Station).

Coripe to Puerto Serrano = 15km – 2h

The final stretch from Coripe to Puerto Serrano is approximately 15 kilometres long. This segment is flat(ish) and runs alongside riverbanks.

This part should take about 2 hours to complete. It culminates in the charming village of Puerto Serrano, where the journey along the Via Verde de la Sierra comes to a fulfilling end.

What to see along the Via Verde?

Olvera

Olvera is one of the most picturesque ‘pueblos blancos’ in Andalusia. Dominated by its imposing church and castle, Olvera is a great place to learn about Andalusian history and culture.

Stroll through the narrow streets, snap photos of the whitewashed houses, and visit the local basilica. Do not miss the castle, which offers an incredible panoramic view all the way to Grazalema.

Viaducts, tunnels and old railway buildings

The Via Verde de la Sierra, planned initially as a railway from Jerez de la Frontera to Almargen in 1926, showcases significant civil engineering works, including over 300 structures along its 126 km length.

Among these, the Sierra Via Verde features four major viaducts, each demonstrating impressive architectural design: The Azares Viaduct spans 65 meters, the Gillete Viaduct extends 83 meters, the Perdiz Viaduct crosses 237 meters with a distinctive large central arch, and another near Zaframagón spans 135 meters with seven arches.

The route also includes 30 tunnels, the longest of which is the Castillo tunnel at 990 meters. Notably, tunnels longer than 150 meters or with curved layouts are illuminated, some using solar power. These tunnels were hand-carved in the 1920s, a pioneering era for concrete use in Spain, and they were supported with wooden beams similar to mining techniques.

Additionally, the Via Verde de la Sierra is dotted with old railway stations, now repurposed to serve as hospitality venues, bike rental services, and cultural centres like the ornithological observatory at Zaframagón Station. This transformation from neglected railway remnants to bustling tourist attractions not only preserves but also celebrates the region’s rich history and local craftsmanship.

Peñón de Zaframagón natural reserve

El Peñón, which you will see first, is a stunning natural landmark. It features a limestone escarpment that soars to a height of 584 meters. This majestic rock formation is beautifully carved by the Guadalporcún River, which slices through it to form the “Garganta del Estrechón,” a deep and dramatic canyon.

The standout wildlife feature of El Peñón is its status as one of Europe’s largest nesting grounds for griffon vultures. The sheer cliffs and rugged terrain make it a perfect haven for these majestic birds and a diverse array of other bird species and small mammals, thanks to the area’s inaccessibility.

The bridge passing above the Guadalporcún River is a beautiful viewpoint to watch the vulture soar to higher altitudes, circling high above in search of upstream wind.

Zaframagón ornithological observatory

Built within the old Zaframagón train station, the observatory here is a highlight, particularly for bird watchers. From there, you can watch the vultures via a Video Monitoring System Surveillance installed in their nesting area (which you can remotely control yourself).

The observatory also showcases interpretive panels on the Peñón de Zaframagón Natural Reserve, the Griffon Vulture and the history of the Vía Verde de la Sierra.

Entry | €2 per person – €1 for children and persons above 65.
Opening hours | Thu-Mon + holidays: 9am-5om – Tue/Wed: 8:30am-2:30pm

Chaparro de la Vega

Chaparro de la Vega offers a tranquil spot perfect for a mid-journey break. Here, a 200-year-old oak tree stands as a natural monument. While there isn’t much to see, the Chaparro is a local celebrity, loved by locals, and used as a backdrop to many events and festivals throughout the year. These include the Fátima Pilgrimage in mid-May.

Puerto Serrano

Finally, as you reach Puerto Serrano, you’ll find yourself in a small village with a welcoming atmosphere.

After a long ride, consider visiting a local restaurant for some traditional Andalusian tapas; the local olives and cheese are a must-try!

What to bring on your bike trip?

Given the relative remoteness of this Greenway, there are a few items that you should absolutely chuck in your day pack before setting off in the morning:

Water | There is no water supply on the way, so make sure to bring a large bottle of water with you. You can fill it up at the start of the Via Verde in Olvera; there is a local fountain right next to the car park.

Warm clothes | If you travel in Andalusia outside of the summer, mornings and evenings can be quite chilly. Depending on when you start cycling, a good jumper, a hat, and gloves might be needed, especially when the sun is hidden by the trees or as you cross the tunnels.

Sunscreen and a hat | are a given all year long in Southern Spain. Do not pass on them, or you will burn!

Cash | The rental bike company doesn’t usually accept card payments, so carry cash.

ID | You will need it as a “deposit” for the bike rental. It will be returned as you drop off the bike at the end of your day.

Snacks/Picnics | There is a small village where you can eat along the way. But always bring snacks with you when you participate in physical activity.

Phone | If you encounter any issues with the bike, you can give a shout to the rental company.

Helmet | Safety first! A helmet is a must-have for cycling, especially on routes that include varied terrain and tunnels. Both Rental companies will offer you one if you wish.

Lights and Reflective Gear | Although the tunnels are lit, some parts can be dark. We didn’t have any bike lights, so if you have one, it might be useful. The same goes for reflective clothing, which enhances visibility as you cross other cyclists.

History of the Via Verde de Olvera-Puerto Serrano

The Via Verde de Olvera, part of the larger Via Verde de la Sierra, has a fascinating history that dates back to the early 20th century. Initially conceived as a railway line, the project was intended to connect Jerez de la Frontera with Almargen, traversing the rugged landscapes of the Sierra de Cádiz. The ambitious railway was planned to facilitate the transport of goods, especially olive oil, cereals, and minerals, between the rural interior and the larger cities.

Construction began in the 1920s, marked by economic optimism and industrial growth in Spain. However, the project faced numerous challenges, including difficult terrain that required the construction of numerous viaducts, bridges, and tunnels. The work progressed slowly and was eventually halted by the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War in 1936. After the war, there was a brief attempt to revive the project, but the changing economic circumstances and the shift in transport technology led to its final abandonment in the 1960s.

The unfinished railway lay dormant for several decades, a relic of a bygone era of ambitious industrial plans. It wasn’t until the late 1990s that the route was rediscovered and given a new lease on life. Local governments, recognizing the scenic route’s potential for tourism and recreation, transformed the old railway line into a “via verde” or greenway. This transformation was part of a broader movement in Spain to repurpose abandoned railway tracks into paths for walking and cycling, promoting eco-tourism and sustainable travel.

Today, the Via Verde de la Sierra, stretching from Olvera to Puerto Serrano, is celebrated for its stunning natural beauty and historical significance. The route features 36 kilometres of gentle grades, over 30 tunnels, and four viaducts, offering breathtaking views of the Andalusian countryside. It attracts thousands of visitors each year, who come to enjoy the serene landscape, rich wildlife, and historical aura of this unique greenway. The Via Verde de Olvera is a testament to the region’s history, a successful blend of preservation and innovation, providing both a recreational space for visitors and a poignant reminder of Spain’s industrial past.

I hope you found this article helpful in preparing for your Via Verde de La Sierra cycling trip. Feel free to share your experience and questions in the comment section below! I would love to hear from you.

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About the Author

Jen is the Funder, Author & Photographer behind Talesfromthelens.com

Jen has lived for the past 15 years across Oceania and Ireland while also travelling in Latin America, North America, and Europe. She has visited more than 65 countries and set foot on every continent in the world! She is a coffee nerd, passionate about photography, wildlife, and outdoor activities.

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