Encarnacion | Paraguay
You might hear a lot of bad things about Paraguay or maybe not hear about it at all… What we found is an authentic country, cheap, with great food, interesting culture and curious local who love asking questions and sharing their Terere!
Encarnacion is situated in the south of Paraguay on the border with Argentina, opposite the Argentine town of Posadas. The two towns face each other on either side of the large river Parana and are linked by a 2.5 km bridge called San Roque Gonzales de Santa Cruz.
Paraguay isn’t really the most known or popular destination for backpackers compared to Peru or Colombia. In fact, there are a lot of critics of Paraguay: it is probably the most corrupted country outside Africa, it’s the hottest country in South America, the second poorest country on the continent and if it wasn’t enough, 60% of the land is inhabitable… Whooo, on the paper that can easily discourage a few…
Well, that’s too bad and that is a big miss for the travellers who decide to not visit. What we found was an authentic country, very cheap, with great food and fascinating culture. Though, they love sharing their Terere (cold herbal mate) and talking about their European ancestors!
In this article, you’ll find a few things to do in Encarnacion, if by any chance you find yourself in the country.
The City of Encarnacion
The city itself is really nice and can be visited on foot. There isn’t a lot to see or do except shopping, eat and hanging out at the beach. But that’s the best about it. Encarnacion is relaxing. A place where you can unwind and just enjoy a day at the river beach. The best is probably to go for a morning swim or a late afternoon chill in order to cool down. Temperatures in Encarncation can rise up super high and, I usually spent my afternoon having a nap in the shade!
The city centre doesn’t have much to offer. Buildings aren’t as exciting as they can be in Buenos Aires or smaller towns in Uruguay, though contrary to whatever we heard prior to visiting the country, we never felt unsafe. Though almost every single shops have private security guards with raffles. Not sure if it is to discourage potential theft or as protection in case of an attack.
In the town, life is quiet but tends to get more jovial as you get down to the river bank. There, you will find restaurants, bars and small stalls where you can rent an umbrella or a sundeck chair.
The Jesuits Ruins of Jesus and Trinidad
Only one hour by local bus from the city of Encarnacion, you can visit the Jesuit ruins of Jesus and Trinidad. These ruins are a testimony of the Jesuits missions that occurred under Spanish rule in the 17th-century. The buildings were built to host the Jesuits who were sent to “civilize” and “Christianize” the indigenous people living in the forest: the Guaranis. They managed to approach the nomads by learning their language and culture and offered them protection and sedentarisation.
The Jesuit Missions of La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue were declared UNESCO World Heritage Status back in 1993. They are quite similar to the San Ignacio ruins (located on the Argentinian side), one of the most famous and well-preserved ruins in the Missiones region.
Both Paraguayan settlements were also abandoned when the Spanish empire expelled the Jesuits from their territory in 1767, as they were seen as becoming too powerful and influential by the European empires and the Church.
These large complexes made of orang-ish stones are called “reduction” and usually are composed of an impressive church, schools, housing for the priests and the Guaranis, cemetery, workshops and even jails, There used to be more than 300 across the Missiones region on the current territory of Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay. Nowadays, only a few have been restored and are accessible to visitors. The Jesuit ruins of Jesus and Trinidad are 2 of the best and shouldn’t be missed!
How to get to the Jesuit Ruins near Encarnacion
You can take a bus from the main bus station in Encarnacion for 10,000 Gs to Trinidad Ruins. You’ll be dropped off on the main road and will need to walk 5 min to the entrance. Buses are quite frequent but it is best to leave as early as possible. From Trinidad to Jesus, there is only 1 bus per hour that can be taken on the left of the petrol station located 100 m from where the bus should drop you in Trinidad. There is no bus sign, so you’ll have to wait on the side of the road. You may as well find a local taxi to drive you to Jesus and back. The bus from Trinidad to Jesus should cost 3,000 Gs one way.
Once in Jesus, confirm what time the bus will be back to get back to Trinidad. Count a good hour to visit the ruins, more if you want to chill a bit and enjoy the incredible views of the countryside.
Walking to Jesus is an option if you have time. That’s what we did while waiting for the bus. Note that 11km at midday isn’t always a good idea in reality, with very high temperature and humidity. We stopped the bus halfway there and were relieved to not have to walk anymore!
Visiting the Jesuit ruins: cost, timetable
The entrance is valid for 3 missions (Trinidad, Jesus and San Cosme ). There are no guided tours or audio guides. You will find a few information signs without many details about the architecture, culture or history, unfortunately. I would recommend reading more about the Guaranis culture and the Jesuits before visiting in order to truly embrace the place and have a richer experience.
| Cost (3 missions included): 25,000 Gs
| Opening hours: Every day from 7 am to 9 pm
Encarnacion’s Carnival
One of the main reasons to actually visit Encarnacion is for its annual Carnival in February, Not very known by tourists who prefer heading to Rio de Janeiro, Encarnacion’s carnival is, however, a very important event in the country. People travel from all around Paraguay to party and dance to the rhythm of the Samba!
More: Carnival season in South America
Where to go after Encarnacion?
WIf you decide to stay in Paraguay you can take a bus to the capital Asuncion and keep going deep into the country to discover the Chaco National Park. Also called the “Green Hell” the park covers more than 60% of the country and is inhabitable. It is, possible to take a boat and cruise along the rivers toward Bolivia or take a tour in the search of Jaguars.
Otherwise, you can go to Brazil via Ciudad del Este or through the northern region of Argentina. The Iguazu falls are only a night bus away from Encarnacion! You can also take a night bus to Buenos Aires or to Corrientes in order to start your Argentinian explorations.
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About the Author
Jen is the Funder, Author & Photographer behind Talesfromthelens.comJen has lived for the past 15 years across Oceania and Ireland while also travelling in Latin America, North America, and Europe. She has visited more than 65 countries and set foot on every continent in the world! She is a coffee nerd, passionate about photography, wildlife, and outdoor activities.
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Noice, this helped a lot. Thanks!!!
Thanks Matthew. I am glad it did. Enjoy your time in Encarnacion and safe travels.
Jenny