Hiking Colca Canyon without a guide, Peru

Hiking Colca Canyon is a must-do while visiting the city of Arequipa. Six hours bus ride outside of town, it is possible to watch condors soar and hike the second deepest canyon in the world. It is very easy to save money and do this hike self-guided. Here is our guide to everything you need to know to prepare for the Colca Canyon trek on your own.

Colca Canyon is one of the main reasons visitors stop in Arequipa, in the south of Peru. Six hours away by local transport, you are plunged into the beautiful scenery of the second-highest canyon in the world, far deeper than the Grand Canyon in America.

But the best part of hiking Colca Canyon is the Oasis you can stay in, at the bottom of the valley. Imagine cooling off after a long day hiking in a clear blue swimming pool overlooked by gigantic red cliffs. It is heaven for backpackers who are not scared of heights and very steep hikes. It is an amazing self-guided trek that doesn’t need you to carry a tent or food.

In this article, we will share all the details of hiking Colca Canyon without a guide.

Self-guided Colca Canyon hike – the routes

The Colca Canyon trek is the main attraction in the area of Arequipa. Nestled in the heart of the Andes, this Canyon is the second deepest in the world, with a maximum depth of a staggering 4,160 m. It is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in America. The best way to visit the canyon is to hike it and even spend the night at the bottom, but hiring horses or bikes is possible.

The different routes

The self-guided walk we detail in this blog post is the most common hiking route: Cabanaconde -> San Juan de Chuccho -> Sangalle -> Cabanaconde.

It is a 3d/2n, but you can also do a 2-day trek if you prefer skipping the first night in San Juan de Chucho and heading straight to the Oasis.

If you are not in a hurry, we recommend the 3-day hike. It will give you more time to enjoy the Sangalle Oasis at the bottom of Colca Canyon on your own on day 2.

For those who have a lot more time and enjoy week-long hikes, there are many other trails from Cabanaconde or Sangalle leading towards different valleys and villages such as Tapay or Fure. Some will even take you to hot water springs, geysers, and volcanoes.

However, these routes aren’t well signed and difficult to find.

Pss!!! The tourism office in Arequipa was really helpful by providing the local bus schedule to Cabanaconde and a map of Colca Canyon. We recommend you pop by to chat with them if you plan something different or longer.

Hiking Colca Canyon without a guide for 2 days

• Cabanaconde -> Sangalle (direct or via San Juan de Chuccho) -> Cabanaconde
  • Direct hike to the Sangalle Oasis – Return trip through the same steep trail. (8km / 7 h)
  • Via San Juan de Chuccho – Same route as the one detailed below, but stay in Oasis only. (20km / 10 h)
• Cabanaconde -> Llahuar -> Sangalle -> Cabanaconde
  • You will have to stay in Llahuar – so no Oasis chilling time in this route (25km / 12h)

Colca Canyon hike – 3 days

• Cabanaconde -> San Juan de Chuccho -> Sangalle -> Cabanaconde (Most common one)
  • Stay in both villages – enjoy the oasis longer – Route detailed below (20km / 10h)
• Cabanaconde -> San Juan de Chuccho -> Llahuar -> Cabanaconde
  • Long day of walk – challenging – no Oasis! (30 km / 18h)
• Cabanaconde -> Sangalle -> Llahuar -> Cabanaconde
  • Direct Route to Sangalle – long chill time at the Oasis + challenging hike to Llahuar (22km / 15h)
• Cabanaconde -> Llahuar -> Fure -> Sangalle -> Cabanaconde (czickontheroad)
  • For good hikers – Hot springs & Waruro waterfalls- Challenging (35km / 15h)

Colca Canyon trek in 4 days

• Cabanaconde -> San Juan de Chuccho -> Sangalle -> Llahuar -> Cabanaconde
  • Perfect if you have time – challenging but less walk per day – Stay in each village (30km / 18h)
• Cabanaconde -> Llahuar -> Fure -> Sangalle -> Cabanaconde
  • Hot springs, Waruro waterfalls & Oasis (30 km / 15h)

Step 1: Arequipa to Colca Canyon (Cabanaconde)

To avoid the heat of the Peruvian sun, it is better to get started early. On day one, you will need to wake up at the very latest at 4:30 am, to get a taxi from your hostel to the terminal of the minivans to Chivay. It is close to the main bus “terminal terrestre” on Avenida Andres Avelino Caceres. Here is a link to find your way with Google maps.

The ride to Chivay will take around 3.30 hours, and once in Chivay, you will have to take another collectivo for 2 hours to Cabanaconde. They are usually waiting for each other. If you don’t ask to be dropped off anywhere special, the driver will take you to the terminus, the main square of Cabanaconde.

The minivans leave all day, as soon as they are full. Or, if you prefer a direct ride, you can also hop on a local bus from the main terminal. On the way to Cabanaconde, try not to fall asleep. The landscapes are really beautiful. The bus takes you through the dry highlands up to 5,000 masl, where you can spot Vicuñas running around.

To your left, you should be able to spot one of the most dangerous volcanoes in Peru. It won’t be hard to spot as the Volcano Sabancaya often projects ashes and smoke!

As you pass through several small villages, you have the chance to get a glimpse of the traditional outfits worn in the Cabanaconde region. The main artefact would be the colourful Cabanconde hat. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to capture any with our camera but you will notice it right away.

TIPS | Buses leave Arequipa Bus terminal with the following companies: Andalucia 9:30 am – Reyna* 11 am – Milagros 2 pm. Just be aware that taking these buses means you are unlikely to complete a day of hiking once you arrive in Cabanaconde.

*Note: The 8 am bus operated by Reyna is no longer in service.

Why you should invest in hiking poles

We recommend using hiking poles during your walk down. Even with a light backpack, your knees and hamstrings are working hard for more than three hours. This constant exercise of muscles we don’t use often can lead to injuries. Hiking poles will relieve you from pain and also give you a better balance on the rocks and gravel as you hike down.

Step 2: Cabanaconde to the start of the trail

As you hop off the bus in town, you need to find the start of the hike to San Juan de Chucho, which for us wasn’t easy. We asked around but somehow took the wrong path and ended up walking through cornfields, with the fear of being chased by farmers or even a bull. With the help of our GPS, we finally found the correct path, which led us back to the main road we arrived from earlier that morning.

The trail starts behind the football pitch, after the turn to the “Mirador San Miguel.” Here’s a Google Maps link.

TIPS | Start the hike from the football pitch – To avoid getting lost and spending unnecessary time looking for the way, ask your driver to leave you at the football pitch of Cabanaconde (El Estadio de futbal a la entrada del Pueblo). About 100 m to your right, there is a little hut* where you should be asked to pay the Boleto Turistico in order to start your walk.

*Note: If the hut is closed, no worry, go ahead and start the hike. Somebody will stop you at one point during the hike to sell you the Boleto Turistico (tourist ticket). It is obligatory if you enter Colca Canyon.

Make sure you are given proof of purchase. The boleto Turistico has been put in place by the government and is run by the locals. All the benefits are supposed to be distributed to the community. You shouldn’t be asked to pay any toll except for this ticket. You may be asked to produce the ticket upon completion of the hike as proof of payment, so keep it safe.

Step 3: HIKing to San Juan de Chuccho

Night 1: accommodation in San Juan de Chuccho

As you cross the River Colca over the wooden bridge, you will encounter a couple of locals who will offer you a place to stay for the night. All hostals (homestays/B&Bs) will pretty much offer the same price and services, such as a bed in a dorm or a private double with dinner and breakfast included.

We chose to stay at the Posada Gloria, which has a lovely garden and cosy private bedrooms. Prices include dinner and breakfast.

TIPS | Should you book your accommodation in advance or not? If you decide not to book and find a place to stay once in San Juan, make sure to ask to visit the room before agreeing to anything. If you don’t like it, you can still go to the next hostel. Just be aware that San Juan de Chucho is very small and remote and is not accessible by car. The rooms will, therefore, be limited and minimalist but good enough for a night in nature.

Booking.com

Step 4: San Juan de Chucho to Sangalle – Day 2

On the next morning of your Colca Canyon self-guided hike, you can have a lie-in until 7 a.m.! The valley’s sparse vegetation offers very little shade along the trail. Therefore, it is better to start the hike to Sangalle as early as possible to avoid the sun’s heat.

The first 30 minutes are about reaching the main road in the town of Cosñirhua. It is a very steep path with rolling and slippery stones. Make sure to take plenty of water and sun cream with you. In Cosñirhua, you can buy some supplies such as water, fruits, and chips. The walk then follows the gravel road until the town of Malata, where you will turn left towards Sangalle.

The second day of walking shouldn’t take more than 3 hours, giving you plenty of time to enjoy the Oasis. As you get closer to Sangalle, the vegetation is denser and greener. The dry cacti and plants disappear to leave space for palm trees and other tropical trees.

TIPS | Water bottles: The water in Colca Canyon is sold at three times the price in Arequipa. To make it cheaper during your hikes in Peru and all around South America, you can bring a water filter or water purification tablets. If you don’t have these, we would recommend buying water in Cosñirhua or even on the way to Sangalle because the hostels at the Oasis are outrageously expensive…the beer is cheaper than water!

Night 2: Accommodation in Sangalle

All along the trail, you will see paintings and arrows showing you how to get to hostels in Sangalle. Follow them to get to the Oasis. The “village” has accommodation facilities, so you will have many choices.

We would recommend walking around and talking with the owners. Ask for the price and the menu for dinner, and check the pool. As you will probably arrive early in the morning, this feature will be the most important for the day, so you have the right to treat yourself as you wish!

We stayed at the hostel, which was the most affordable for us. The Tropical Lodge (and its swimming pool) were empty all day until a massive group of young backpackers arrived. This hostel seems to host overnight tours from Arequipa.

We thought it was going to be very busy and noisy, but the atmosphere was really good at dinner, and everybody went to bed without noise right after. Our only issues ended up being Jenny’s continually running nose and 2 dogs who decided to spend the night barking outside our door.

The Pros of Hiking Colca Canyon Without A Guide, if you can choose your accommodation. For a quieter place, look at the Oasis Paraiso Ecolodge, right next to the Tropical Lodge. It has been highly recommended to us (after our hike…) and doesn’t host large guided tours.

TIPS | Negotiate the prices: If you plan on having lunch, dinner and breakfast during your stay, try to negotiate the price. Most hostal owners knocked a few euros off when asked for a deal.

Step 5: Hiking back to cabanaconde…

So far, you have been walking down from Cabanaconde, admiring the incredible views of Colca Canyon. But all this time, every step down you took was another one you ultimately will have to climb back up on your last day. You will surely hear many people telling you how hard and exhausting the hike back up is… It depends on how fit, prepared, and used to your altitude.

At the top of the hill, somebody may ask to check your tourist ticket. Once done, you can continue on the path to the village for about 1 hour. In Cabanaconde, you might need to hang out at the main plaza while waiting for the bus. There should be a direct bus to Arequipa in the morning. If not, a minivan will stop in Chivay to allow you to hop on another minivan to Arequipa.

TIPS | Transport Cabanaconde to Arequipa: Bus schedule From Cabanaconde to Arequipa: Reyna: 6.30 am – Andalucia: 9 am – Milagros: 11 am – Reyna: 2 pm – Milagros: 11 pm

Alternatives to hiking Colca Canyon

You can leave later and sleep in Cabanaconde for the night to avoid the early morning rise and the long bus ride on day one.

There is a viewpoint on the way to Cabanaconde called “Cruz del Condor” where condors soar on the rising heatwaves. You will have a better chance to see them in the morning, but you might also be surrounded by 10 tourist buses. To get there, you can take the minivan or the local bus from Arequipa and ask the driver to drop you off at the Mirador.

Your only issue will be finding the next bus to Cabanaconde (there is no bus stop). If you can, hitchhike, but be aware that in Peru, local people always expect a few coins for the ride (to be given when you hop off).

You can do the hike the other way around, but it might be a bit more technical, mainly on the last day as the path is very rocky and sandy.

Join a tour

Here is a selection of tours you can book online, whether you want to spend a day seeing the condors or trek the full three days!

• From Arequipa: 2-Day Colca Canyon Tour with Transfer to Puno – €97 / Get picked up in Arequipa, visit the Colca Canyon and head to Puno near Lake Titicaca.
• Full-Day Colca Canyon Tour from Arequipa – €88 / Visit the Mirador Cruz del Condor, the national reserve of Pampa Cañahuas and discover the Peruvian backcountry.
• From Arequipa: Colca Canyon Full-Day Guided Tour – €45 / A day tour to the Mirador Cruz del Cóndor!
• 3 Day Trekking into Colca Canyon from Arequipa – €98 / Hike the Colca Canyon with a guide for 3 days.

What to Pack for the Colca Canyon Trek

Looking at most of the hikers, we have seen a few crazy things. To be sure not to suffer, be a little bit prepared. Here are our tips. They are also valid for any other hike in Peru!

• Hiking poles | Even if you think you look like a 70-year-old granny doing your weekly walk, you will, in the end, be grateful to keep your balance, avoid sore knees on the way down and save your energy while going up.
• Hiking shoes | This can sound silly, but no! Running shoes or Converse do not do well on a gravel path. Hiking shoes are a must when you go for a moderate to difficult hike. Colca Canyon isn’t a flat trail and can be very tricky with loose rocks. If you don’t want to break a leg, ankle, or nose on a loose path, get yourself a pair of good hiking shoes!
• Backpacks | Carrying plastic bags in one hand and handbag in the other is not the best way of carrying water for this type of hike. Get a small backpack and if you don’t have any, leave all your belongings in a plastic bag in your hostel and your big one with you. Your back won’t be killing you and you will definitely spend less energy.
• Timing | You shouldn’t leave Sangalle later than 6:30 a.m. The sun rises at the same time as you. If you leave too late, you will be roasting. Leaving early means you will be in the shade for most of the hike.
• Water | If there is one thing you need to carry, it is water. Don’t underestimate the need for drinking because at this altitude your body works harder than during a usual trek at sea level. To avoid heatstroke make sure to bring 2L per person on the last day.
• Water filter | We would recommend using a water filter bottle during hikes. Carrying purification water tablets is also a good idea if you plan on hiking in South America. However, don’t drink too much alcohol at high altitudes, as it will make you even more dehydrated.
• Altitude sickness | High altitude starts at 2,400 m and the illness with it. From this point up, your body will need more oxygen to function correctly. Make sure to take deep breaths in and out as you hike. Take your time and find your own rhythm. It is better to have a continuous, steady rhythm than walking fast and constantly stopping to gasp for air. If you start to have a headache, drink a lot as it can be due to dehydration. For the rest, as we are not doctors, we will let you read about altitude sickness and its symptoms, as it is always better to be aware of any eventuality.

More adventures in Peru?

• What To Know Before Hiking The Rainbow Mountain
• 8 Reasons Why You Should Hike The Salkantay Trek
• How To Get To Machu Picchu? All Of The Possibilities Explained
• Sacred Valley, a self-guided hiking tour of Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo and Pisac
• Sandboarding and Buggy Riding in Huacachina

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