Just outside the city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra lies the little oasis of Samaipata. Completely different to any other town in Bolivia due to its temperate climate and easy access to National Parks. Since the settlement of a large community of Germans and Dutch, Samaipata has significantly grown to attract tourists, mainly backpackers, in search of a tropical feel and a chilled out atmosphere.
A bit hippyish around the edges, Samaipata is a small village where it feels good to walk around the many little art shops, buying freshly baked bread from a cycling dutchman or stop at a coffee shop to hide from the heat. On another day, Samaipata also gives the chance to discover the surrounding waterfalls, the cloud forest of the Amboro National Park or even take a hike to look for Condors. Some say Samaipata is the reason to head to the East of Bolivia.
Travelling around Samaipata
There are many things you can do from Samaipata, but without a car, you might need to join a tour or chip in for an overpriced taxi ride. Let’s be honest, this isn’t something we particularly liked about this part of the country. We have been used to visiting Bolivia by taking local buses and mostly making our own self-guided tours. But in Samaipata it is a bit more complicated since it is quite hard to find a local bus. For any destination close enough to the main road, hopping in a collectivo will be the best bet, but as soon as you try to go off the beaten path, taxis and tours will become a necessity.
We spent a week relaxing in Samaipata and exploring what it has to offer. We would by no means suggest others to stay that long, but there are several things to do to keep you occupied and enjoying the Bolivian sun.
This is what to do in Samaipata without breaking the wallet!
Visit the “las Cuevas” Waterfalls
These waterfalls are situated about 15 km outside of town and worth the journey to cool down. To get there you can take a collectivo or hitchhike. Really you shouldn’t rely on the bus as it passes once or twice a day and the time is variable. The locals didn’t seem to know when it was due to pass. Hitchhiking in this part of Bolivia is perfectly fine, all of the locals do it and if you hop in the back of a 4×4 there is no better feeling than watching the coffee fields whiz by.
In the park, there are 3 waterfalls to visit with a short walk between each. The first one is quite small but you can swim and there are usually fewer people. The second is bigger while the 3rd opens up to a large bathing area where you can just chill.
From the 2nd waterfall, there is a trail to access a Viewpoint. Only a short walk, it is made slightly hard by the heat but from there the view is worth the effort. A gorgeous valley surrounded by the iconic rounded peaks of the area is the reason many love Samaipata.
Entrance Fee: 15 Bs (€1.90)
Collectivo : 7 Bs (€0.90)You may need to wait outside for 10 – 15 minutes before entering as there only seems to be one park ranger to take the entrance fee. If you can, avoid the weekends! This is when all of the locals come and it can get rather cramped.
Animal refuge
Where possible we like to support those caring for abandoned or hurt animals. Just outside of town there is a small refuge. To get there walk West along a gravel road to the animal refuge for about 2 km. On the way make sure to stop at the small place called la Vaca Loca, “the crazy cow”, where the homemade ice cream will cool you down. A little further is the animal refuge which has been set up by a local family and helped by volunteers.
Once the entrance fees are paid, the owners let you walk around freely to see the different animals they have rescued from illegal trafficking, road accidents and that were unauthorized pets. The refuge was nice but we thought it was lacking a bit of information about the actions taken by the refuge, but they do what they can with what they have. We saw Toucans, Monkeys and even an Ocelot.
Entrance Fee: 20 Bs (€2.56)
NEXT READ: WHAT TO DO IN SANTA CRUZ DE LA SIERRA?
Mirador de Samaipata
if you don’t know what to do and want to go for a walk, you can go to the Mirador de Samaipata. It is a little walk up towards the hotel El Pueblito. What we liked the most about this walk was the chance to see the winery “Viñedos” which is one of the oldest in the region. It can be visited but unfortunately, when we went it was closed. Worth checking in out.
El Fuerte
This Pre-Colombian fort is probably the main attraction of the area. Recognised as a World Heritage site by UNESCO, El Fuerte was built around 2,500 years ago by the civilisation of the Chané of the Mojocoyas before being taken over by the Incas and Spaniards.
To get there, we had to take a taxi as the only cars going there are visitors and they are not many. The taxis are a scam. They know most people who come to Samaipata want to visit El Fuerte and they completely overcharge. The price is per car, so it is better to team up with other people in order to decrease the price per head.
If like us you can’t find anyone in your hostel heading that way, our tip is to hang out on the main square, near the taxis, and spot other tourists asking the taxi prices to El Fuerte. Join them and ask if they would be okay to split the cost of the taxi to get to El Fuerte. It is a win-win for them and you. Once there, the taxi will wait for you to do the tour of the park.
Without much information on offer, the significance El Fuerte is lost. The views of the rock carvings and the mountains behind are simply beautiful.
Taxi to El Fuerte : 100 Bs per car (€12.80)
Entrance El Fuerte : 50 Bs (€6.40)
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The Che Trail
In 1967, Che Gevara was killed in Bolivia after he built a Bolivian guerrilla group called the National Liberation Army of Bolivia in order to start a similar Revolution to the one in Cuba.
This time, the Revolution never really picked up and Che Guevara was executed in the forest near La Higuera, a very small village in the countryside, about 180 km from Samaipata. These days, it is possible to hike in the Quebrada del Churo where Che and his men hid out before being arrested.
We did not find the courage to do a day trip since the road is a nightmare and it would have taken a very long time to get there. The best is to stop at Vallegrande and maybe stay a couple of days to be able to visit the area. Otherwise, there are always tours that offer deals from Santa Cruz or Samaipata.
The Amboro National Park
The Amboro National Park is accessible from Saimapata by car or with a tour. There are no local buses or collectivos driving to and from the park, which makes it a bit complicated to visit on a budget.
Tours offer two types of excursions into the park: a day-hike into the cloud forest or a morning at the Refugio Los Volcanes. To do it on your own, the best is to either rent a car or leave from Santa Cruz. Here is an article from Bolivian life that is really well documented.
In the end, we decided to skip the Amboro National Park as we here heading towards Rurrenabaque, The Bolivian Amazon, after Samaipata. It is a shame as the park is known to have the most biodiversity in all of South America.
Coffee farms and harvest season
During our stay in Samaipata, we had the chance to stay at a coffee farm created by the coffee producers we had volunteered with in Caranavi. The first commercial coffee farm in the area, the producers harvested for the first time during our stay. The good thing about starting coffee farming near Samaipata is that the size of the land which can be bought isn’t limited like in Caranavi.
Here the farms are 30 to 50 hectares and start producing a very interesting coffee. This is excellent news for the increase of Bolivian coffee production that has been in a bad state for the past years.
RELATED: HARVESTING COFFEE IN BOLIVIA
Where to eat in Samaipata
We absolutely loved the food in Samaipata, even if the choice is quite limited. We ended up eating at the same place over and over but it was really worth it.
- Cafe Tango: Vegetarian Restaurant – We ate the sandwiches here every single day. It is affordable and very tasty. The lady is very nice and sells lots of organic creams, tea, spices, etc. – On Calle Arce
- La Cocina: Great variety of Mexican food, well served. The falafel burger and fries are excellent! – On Calle Sucre
- Caff’é Art: A nice place, making okay coffee and great pies. A bit pricey but it is a nice comfort food after a long hike. Our favourite? Banana and carrot cakes. Have a chat with the owner, he’s a lovely man with lots of stories about the region. – On Calle Bolivar
- La Vaca Loca: A restaurant just outside of town offering homemade ice cream. A must visit to cool down! – Avenida Ramon Dario Gutierrez
- Boheme: The only bar with great atmosphere, live music and good beer. The main draw here is that you can order food from La Cocina and have them serve it in the bar while having a drink! It is a small town after all. – Corner of Sucre and Ruben Terrazas
Where to stay in Samaipata
Budget
- Hostel Andoriña:
Bunk beds – shared room/bathroom
60 Bs per person
Breakfast included – Rooftop balcony but no kitchen - Hostel El Jardin:
Private double Bedroom
80 Bs per room
Campsite & Room – Kitchen – Awesome design made in Adobe and recycled material. - Hostal Don Ysidro:
Double Bedroom – shared bathroom
80 Bs per room
Family-owned – Breakfast included – Kitchen well equipped.
Affordable
- Nomada hostel
Bunk Bed & Doubles
80 to 100 Bs per person
Breakfast included – Rooftop terrasse & Yoga Classes - Hostel Serena
Bunk Bed & Doubles
80 to 100 Bs per person
Breakfast included – nice garden and views – Kitchen - YVY Casa hostel – NEW
Double bedroom
Min 150 Bs
Breakfast included – a beautiful house with yoga facilities
Luxury
- El Pueblito Resort
Double, bungalow
min 550 Bs per room
Breakfast included – Swimming pool – best view in town with wines - Finca La Vispera
Chalet & Private house
min 400 Bs
Breakfast included – Kitchen – Farmhouse –
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jen – Owner, writer & photographer – has lived for the past 10 years across Oceania and Ireland while also travelling long-term in Latin America, North America and Europe. She has visited more than 60 countries and set foot on every continent in the world!
>> Favourite countries: New Zealand, Bolivia, Iceland.
>> Wishlist: Svalbard, Japan, Botswana, Alaska.
>> Philosophy: “We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.
Jen is a coffee nerd, passionate about photography, wildlife and outdoor activities. Her organisation and curiosity make her a great travel companion always looking for DIY and off-the-grid adventures. For more info, check out the About page.
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We visited here last month, but only El fuerte and Cheguevara trail as we ran out of time. Makes me sad but at least I have a reason to come back 🙂
Yes, travelling is about decisions but not doing everything gives time to enjoy the moment and not rush. And as you said, it gives an excuse to go back again!